Tulum and Guadelajara, Mexico: A tale of two trips in the pandemic

Two recent outings to the country — a person to sunlight-soaked Tulum and yet another to the major town of Guadalajara — exposed contrasting attitudes and approaches to Covid-19.

Extra by chance than layout, the two outings have been very different.

One particular associated flying straight from the United States on an American airline the other crossing the border on foot and traveling domestically on a Mexican airline. These variances intended the Covid protocols for having back into the States diverse a good deal, also.

Tulum: A free of charge-wheeling seashore family vacation

With considerably of the rest of the world shut off to nonessential travel or tangled in their individual Covid limitations, south of the border emerged early in the pandemic as a viable worldwide desired destination for several Us residents.

Tulum’s archaeological ruins are a significant draw for holidaymakers. So is the whole bordering coastal area.

Joe Yogerst

But I was not organized for just how a great deal travel has boomed until we set off for a family members getaway to Tulum in December. We opted to consider the Cross-Border Express (CBX) for the first time. It is a examine-in terminal in San Diego on the US side with a pedestrian bridge throughout the border to Tijuana Intercontinental Airport.

It took two hrs just to cross the transborder bridge — a slim enclosed room with no social distancing — together with hundreds of other people catching the 18 crimson-eye flights departing Tijuana following midnight.

That tortuous two several hours on the CBX bridge was the only time I was really nervous about Covid throughout our holiday vacation.

Amongst the positive aspects of working with CBX were significantly cheaper flights out of Tijuana (we’re talking fifty percent the expense of flights from the United States) and immediate, nonstop flights alternatively than the headache and unpredictability of connecting airports.

We experienced to fill out an on the internet health variety for the Mexican governing administration ahead of likely through immigration on the Tijuana facet of the bridge, but no one asked to see our vaccination cards at any issue throughout the total 10-working day trip. And no Covid testing was needed to get into Mexico.

With its yoga studios, vegan restaurants and total-moon seaside functions, Tulum is stated to have a “hippie chic” vibe. But nearly at the moment, it was obviously noticeable that quite a few visitors were being in total denial when it came to the pandemic.

Liefs vegan eatery is one of several open-air restaurants in “hippie stylish” Tulum.

Joe Yogerst

Even though outlets, bars and places to eat requested patrons to wear masks and maintain their length, most of the tourists I witnessed blatantly disregarded the pleas even as the Omicron variant of the coronavirus started off to attain momentum.

The preserving grace was the truth that so significantly of Tulum is outdoors, including top-shelf sights these types of as the drop-useless attractive beaches, cenote swimming holes, bike and climbing paths, bars, restaurants and the Mayan ruins.

Having back into the US

It truly is not till the working day you vacation household from Tulum that Covid rears its unappealing head yet again. Anybody flying specifically to the United States needs to consider a Covid take a look at in just just one day of journey — no make a difference what your vaccination standing.

In any other case, you are not allowed to board your flight. Those who check favourable have to quarantine in Mexico — generally at their own expense. Some resorts have baked free or diminished-level quarantines into their choices.

Re-entry screening demands have produced a cottage market of Covid-testing trailers and vans together Avenida Coba, the principal drag amongst the beach locations and downtown Tulum.

I requested a customer from New York City what the streetside screening entailed. She instructed me that it was “fast and quick,” charge $35 and took close to an hour to get the end result.

These of us flying domestic back again to Tijuana did not want a Covid exam. But that would not imply we had been household totally free. On our flight from Cancun to Tijuana, several of the English-talking travellers only refused to wear masks irrespective of reminders from the flight attendants.

Though Covid safety measures are not strictly adopted in the spot around Tulum, lots of of the top rated sights, this kind of as cenote Choo-Ha, are uncovered to the outside.

Joe Yogerst

The epilogue to this tale is the point that Covid began to spike in Cancun and Tulum all-around Xmas — the day we flew home. Cabo San Lucas, yet another common Mexican beach destination — experienced a identical surge.

Baja California Sur, where by Cabo San Lucas is found, was detailed as orange on January 24. Pink is the greatest chance amount.

Guadalajara: A Covid-cautious town keep

The Covid safety measures in Guadalajara — a metropolis about 120 miles inland from Puerto Vallarta in Jalisco state on the Pacific Coast — couldn’t have been more distinctive than free-wheeling Tulum together the Caribbean.

I traveled to Guadalajara on a producing exploration excursion about a thirty day period in advance of my trip in Quintana Roo, just just before Omicron’s discovery was introduced.

Employees make traditional Mexican candies at Nuestros Dulces in Tlaquepaque just exterior Guadalajara.

Joe Yogerst

Like much of Mexico, Jalisco has found a steep rise in conditions in January, even though the level of circumstances for each 100,000 people in the point out is nevertheless about a 3rd of that in Quintana Roo. Jalisco moved from green to yellow on January 24 in the country’s targeted visitors mild method.

Right before traveling down, I questioned a colleague in the regional tourism organization how the metropolis had managed to dodge the worst of Covid. She in depth a few primary causes:

1. The governor of Jalisco State took the pandemic seriously from day one and right away released mask mandates and other measures.

2. Jalisco has what a lot of look at Mexico’s greatest wellness-treatment process.

3. The pandemic was not politicized in the state, meaning that inhabitants of all persuasions adopted the Covid policies and tips.

Rigid guidelines in the metropolis

Critical Covid measures ended up apparent from the moment I stepped out of my lodge that very first early morning. Anyone was masked up, the two indoors and out. Entrance to all retailers, dining establishments, church buildings and museums — as well as pedestrian entrance to the historic town heart — essential a mask, hand sanitizer and a electronic temperature check.

Alternatively of closing down, the city’s major sights experienced adapted new guidelines and methods. For occasion, the Instituto Cultural Cabañas, which preserves extra than a hundred priceless José Clemente Orozco murals, was transformed into a one particular-way route with docents producing guaranteed that site visitors kept at the very least 2 meters (6 toes) aside.

Lunch is served below at Casa Luna in Tlaquepaque. Covid precautions are more closely adopted in Jalisco state than in some other areas of Mexico.

Joe Yogerst

In Guadalajara, Covid procedures were being substantially stricter than any location I’ve traveled in the States because the pandemic begun, like the states of Washington, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona and Texas.

I did have to get a Covid test just before flying home by means of Houston, but it was a breeze.

An full floor of the huge parking garage at Guadalajara International Airport had been reworked into a testing facility. I compensated the $25 payment with a credit card, obtained my nose swabbed and 20 minutes afterwards had my destructive final result — both of those on paper and through email attachment.

As with most journeys overseas these times, you have to be ready to quarantine at your very own expense if you check positive right before flying again to your property place.

Bottom line: If you might be genuinely experience the want to journey internationally, Mexico continues to be one of the least difficult spots to navigate — as very long as you might be ready to handle your own attainable publicity to the virus.

Best picture: Playa Paraiso in Tulum (Joe Yogerst)